Groningen Museum

Arriving on the train from Amsterdam this morning I went straight to the Groningen Museum. This made sense as the museum is right in front of the station, lying on an island in the canal that runs in front of the station and circumambulates the old part of the city, effectively turning the whole of the old city into an island.

Groningen Train Station

It also made sense because I could leave my heavy bag in the cloakroom and so didn't have to walk round with it for a few hours. I'm only in Groningen for 3 days and so only have my daypack but it's still heavy to be lugging around with me all day. The hostel is on the far side of the town, only a 20 min walk from the station but still ... and I couldn't check in till after 3pm anyway.

It cost a hefty 13 euros to get into the museum and I briefly toyed with the idea of getting a museum year card at 49 euros but worked out I probably wouldn't get my money's worth. When I used to come to the Netherlands more often I always had a  museum card and it was so much nicer not having to worry about the cost when going to museums.

I had no idea what to expect from the very modern multi-coloured building (a complete contrast to the old ornate train station opposite) so hoped I wasn't to be disappointed. I wasn't.


The current special exhibition is on Nordic Art and blew my mind. The colours! The light! The impact! I had never heard of any of the artists but now have a few new favourites.There were artists representing all five countries which are considered Nordic - Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Norway and Iceland. I spent well over an hour walking from room to room trying to take it all in.

Yin Xiuzhen 'Weapon' 2003-2007

 

Another exhibition which caught my attention was the a display of weapons hanging from the ceiling of one of the rooms, all at different heights. Each 'weapon' had a kitchen knife tip but the hilt was made from old clothes; stretched jumpers and the like. It was all rather colourful and effective. Here's the blurb:





Resembling darts that appear to be heading directly toward their target, these colourful objects look not only dangerous but also comical. On the one hand, the threat is reinforced by the knives that are attached to the spear-like objects, but the fact that these are primarily kitchen knives, in conjunction with the feature that they are made of second-hand clothes, emphasizes their domestic nature. The 'weapons' evoke the idea of TV masts, which have similar form and function all over the world. To Yin, they are the ultimate weapon. After all, they control the flow of information like gigantic filters.

How deep and meaningful is that?

I sat in the theatre for an hour watching a Michael Palin film about Danish artist Hammersvoi. I'd never come across this programme before let alone the artist so learnt quite a lot.

The rest of the museum I wasn't so interested in. The regular collection, which was actually quite good, couldn't excite me after the Nordic Art exhibition. I also found a basement room full of crockery. China displays never really interest me at the best of times and this one didn't either. What I did like about it was the way it had been displayed. The glass cabinets were all shrouded by a maze of net curtains. It really was like a maze and got quite disorientating walking around trying to see everything and never knowing what was going to be behind the next curtain. In one space the exhibits were actually in the floor with a layer of glass over them. I think it was meant to be representative of how some of these exhibits have been 'discovered' but as there was no information it was difficult to be sure. 

Finally I saw an exhibition of Russian women artists which at another time I probably would have really enjoyed but by this time I was all museum-ed out and had achey legs and an empty stomach. I retired to the restaurant for an expensive panini and a cup of coffee before wandering round town and finding my hostel.

Here are some of the amazing Nordic Art paintings I saw:

Cycling Japan

I've wanted to go to Japan for years. I have Japanese friends who returned to live there a few years ago and visiting them gives me even more of a reason to go to Japan. Why haven't I gone already?

• When I've had time to go on holiday I've been busy visiting other places instead
• I'd like to go for long(ish) time and so haven't had long enough holidays off work
• It's very expensive
• It's difficult to get around and really do anything without knowing the language and a lot about the culture.

So, if I'm going to get around to ticking this one off my list I have to get over these four main issues.

The first one isn't so major. I'll make time for it at some point. I have plenty of time to get to all the main places I want to visit before I'm 60 and still have time to visit others as well.

Now I'm a teacher I have 6 weeks holiday in the summer. Spring and autumn are meant to be the nicest times to go as I'd get to see either the blossoms or the autumn leaves. But I could cope with missing out on those as long as I got to see the country. I'm not sure if even 6 weeks would be long enough, but I may get even more time in the future if my hostel and freelancing life plans work out. So issue no.2 is fast disappearing. 

The expense is a problem I still have to really deal with. Some people say it's not as expensive as I think especially if I'm not staying in luxury hotels. Which I definitely wouldn't be. I recently read an article in a travel magazine about cycling round part of Japan. Now that would be a really cheap way to get about. I could camp (hopefully - I don't know much about the camping situtation in Japan), carry lots of packets of instant noodles, and get to out of the way places without it costing me anything.

The problem with the cycling solution is I've never ridden really long distances before and never carried all my gear on a bike. I would like to do this though, which is why doing a long distance cycle tour is also on my list of things to do. By doing my cycle tour in Japan I could tick off 2 challenges in one go. So now, I need to think about practising and training. I bought a cycle rack for my car at Christmas so I can take my bike out to the Peak District and cycle some of the converted railway track trails. I do want to cover these as they are very scenic, but they make for boring walking. They will make a good start for my cycle training though. As I'm too busy to even get out walking or go to the gym at the moment I don't know when this will happen, but hopefully before the summer.

The fourth issue with my going to Japan is the culture and language. I have a friend who is a Japanophile (is there a proper word for that?) and has studied the language for years. Even she had lots of difficulties when she visited. The language is written in a mix of Japanese, Western and Chinese characters. Although she knew the Japanese and Western characters, all the Chinese characters made things very hard to read. Also there are so many rules for every little thing you do. Because foreigners don't know the etiquette it makes it very difficult to achieve even half of what a Japanese person can in the time, and there are many things you miss out on completely.

Starting my visit by staying with my Japanese friends may be a good move as I can learn a lot from them. Akiko is pretty adventurous and not your typical Japanese woman so she may even be persuaded to do a bit of travelling with me. I'll need to learn a bit of the language, though I have no plans for that just now. I'm studying a couple of other things at the moment and need to get them out of the way before I take anything else on. I can make a start on the culture though. I'm not starting from zero as I already know quite a bit (not nearly enough, but more than your average British person). I've just bought The Encyclopedia of Japanese Pop Culture which is a bit out of date but still a good place to start according to the reviews on Amazon. I must also read my Josie Dew books about her cycle tours of Japan. I like her books but I've never got round to reading these two even though I've owned them for years.

And still on the cycling theme - I've just come back from the Netherlands which is the world's most cycle friendly country. As I go there most years, I could do a bit cycle tour training there. There are plenty of places it would be great to cycle round for a few days and I could carry all my gear to practice. I've done some cycling there in the past (including this visit) so I know how easy it is. A great place to start.

So these are my Japan visiting and cycle touring plans so far. When I start writing them down like this I feel like I'm actually getting somewhere. When they are just ideas swimming around in my head it doesn't feel like I'm actually doing anything towards my goals. But actually, they are all ticking over all the time in the back of my mind.

Mud walking

I've just returned from the Netherlands where I spent almost a week staying with a friend in Amsterdam. This has got me thinking again about wadlopen or mud walking. There is a line of islands along the northern coastlines of the Netherlands and Germany. When the tide is low it is possible to walk with a guide along the mud flats and even from one island to the next. These are challenging walks that can take up to 4 hours to complete and involve wading through cold sandy mud. Sometimes thigh deep. On a Dutch person. Dutch people are tall. I'm not tall.

Bart would also like to do this so it is something we could do together. I'm usually there at Easter which is the wrong time of year, as it is too cold and unpredictable before May. So maybe next year I have to make my trip for the June half term instead. High top trainers are recommended for the walk and as they went out of fashion in the 80s they can be quite hard to find now. So I'll start looking around charity shops for a cheap pair so I have them ready for whenever the wadlopen opportunity presents itself.  

http://www.wadlopen.net/index.php?page=home-2